This book is a bit of a departure from the kind of Audible books I usually listen to. But I enjoyed it while on long car and bus rides during my recent trip through the Five Stan countries. Here is my book review First Lie Wins by Ashley Elston.
The Mystery of Evie Porter
While reading this book I was reminded of a movie from back in the ’90’s called Point of No Return with Bridget Fonda. Anyone remember that film? Well First Lie Wins is similar; a mysterious women working for an even more mysterious operation undercover.
Evie Porter finds herself recruited to a world of espionage and deceit. Her identity and location changes with each job, and so does the money she makes. Having no family or friends it’s easy to change everything about herself for each and every job that the mysterious “Mr. Smith” choses her to complete.
First Lie Wins
Her current alias – Evie Porter, needs to get very close to the suspect Ryan Sumner. Very close. In fact Evie finds herself falling for Ryan, even while understanding he is up to something mysterious himself. When a women using Evie’s REAL name shows up in town, the case is thrown into a whirlwind and bad things happen…including a fatal car accident.
Plot Twists and Turns
Elston does a good job creating a suspense filled novel using flashbacks and sympathy for the protagonist and her past and present predicament. The novel also includes other well written characters. Sometimes the plot is a bit absurd and unbelievable, but hey…it’s fiction. The author definitely threw some unexpected plot twists into the mix and it kept me interested and often on the edge of my seat – literally in the van I was riding in.
Who Lives Happily Ever After
Well you will have to read First Lie Wins by Ashley Elston to find out who lives happily ever after. It might surprise you. Thanks for reading my book review First Lie Wins by Ashley Elston for this week’s Reading Wednesday. Check out last week’s book review All the Colors of the Dark by Chris Whitaker.
****Four stars for First Lie Wins by Ashley Elston. We love it when you comment, pin and share our weekly book reviews. Thank you.
Welcome to the second of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. This is my honest opinion from my personal experience. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Today I share about Tbilisi Georgia.
The country of Georgia just blew my mind for it’s history, beauty, people, wine and food! I really enjoyed my week in Tbilisi. But there is political unrest too. So for today’s blog post let me start with the recent elections; Tbilisi Georgia, The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful.
The Bad
On October 26th, a month after our visit, elections were held and the ruling party – referred to as the Dream Party – was re-elected to Parliament. Georgia has a Prime Minister/Parliamentary strong system. Immediately protests began and countries around the world questioned the legitimacy of the election. A partial recount was done and again the Dream Party was announced as the winner. Georgians took to the street in protest of what they believe was a manipulated vote with Russian interference. It’s too early to tell how this might unfold and affect tourism in this beautiful nation. For more details it is explained in the NPR Report. This entire process sounds eerily familiar to me as an American.
I will add that during our visit we had a wonderful guide on a food tour who was unusually vocal about the upcoming election. She feared that the Dream Party would do whatever it takes to win the election and keep the country pro-Russian. She and most Georgians supported moving the country forward with more Western leaning tendencies towards Europe. Georgia is waiting to be confirmed as a member of the European Union. This election result would likely remove them as a candidate.
On My Own
If you read last week’s post about our car accident while we were visiting Yerevan Armenian, you know that my husband suffered a concussion. Arne was having some pretty serious symptoms; fatigue, dizziness, trouble swallowing and numbness on his right side. We agreed that he needed a quiet week. So, luckily our Airbnb in Tbilisi was peaceful and comfortable and he spent nearly the entire week resting. Meanwhile I gallivanted around Tbilisi on my own. Tbilisi was easy for me to maneuver and the weather was great and I got to see the sites. Poor Arne.
The Good
Hopefully starting off with “the bad” didn’t turn you off too much, because my experience during the week in Tbilisi was really great. On my own I did three tours, and at the end of the week Arne joined me for one more. This is a remarkably beautiful, historic, inexpensive and DELICIOUS country. I loved it. So let’s talk about it.
A Little History
Georgia is a country situated at the crossroads of Eastern Europe and Western Asia. It boasts rich history that dates back to ancient times. The region has been inhabited since the Paleolithic era, and it became a significant cultural and political center in the early medieval period. The Kingdom of Georgia emerged in the 11th century. Reaching its zenith under King David IV and Queen Tamar known for its advancements in art, architecture, and literature. However, the kingdom faced invasions from the Mongols and later the Ottomans and Persians. This lead to a decline in its power and fragmentation into smaller principalities.
In the 19th century, Georgia was annexed by the Russian Empire, which brought significant changes to its political landscape. Following the collapse of the Russian Empire in 1917, Georgia declared independence, but this was short-lived as it was invaded by the Red Army in 1921. Georgia was incorporated into the Soviet Union. Georgia regained its independence in 1991 after the dissolution of the USSR. The post-Soviet period was marked by political instability and conflicts, including the wars in Abkhazia and South Ossetia. Today, Georgia is a sovereign nation striving for democratic development, economic growth, and closer ties with Europe and NATO, while preserving its unique cultural heritage.
Where Am I
We drove across the border from Armenia to Tbilisi with a hired car and driver. This is an easy way to cross the border with some sightseeing opportunities. We had to visit the countries of the Caucasus in this order. We could not go from Armenia to Azerbaijan because of closed borders between those two countries. Armenia and Georgia currently have good diplomatic relations.
Tbilisi Walking Tours
I did a walking tour and a food walking tour on my own during the week. I booked both these group tours with Viator and both were exceptional. The city of Tbilisi has some beautiful architecture, both old and new. The country of Georgia is an officially secular nation. Religion in Georgia reached a major turning point in 326 AD. The nation is largely recognized as the second country in the world (after Armenia) to have adopted Christianity. Today 85% of Georgians are Christian and 11% practice the Muslim faith. Once numbering as many as 100,000, today the Georgian Jewish population comprises only a few thousand people. Most of the Jewish population emigrated to Israel, United States and Belgium.
So Delicious
Some of the best food I’ve ever eaten was right here in Tbilisi. I know right? Considering how many places I have traveled that is saying a lot. Every restaurant we ate in was amazing. Prices are incredible low (dinner for two with drinks less than $20 USD). Restaurant staff was always so welcoming. The food tour I took was so interesting. We were treated with some hidden gems including an underground bakery, a tiny secret tea room, and wine tasting.
My favorite foods included amazing hummus; a local specialty called Khingali – a delicious dumpling; and best of all Khachapuri – the national dish of Georgia is a delicious filled pastry that Georgians eat everyday.
Check out the YouTube video below to see my Tasty Tuesday all about Georgia Cuisine
Surprising Georgian Wine
I had no idea that Georgia is one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world. The fertile valleys and protective slopes of the South Caucasus were home to grapevine cultivation and neolithic wine production for at least 8000 years. Georgians are very proud of this fact and of their local wines. On each of the three tours I did on my own, we tasted wine – that’s how important it is to this region. I really enjoyed all the wine I tasted and plan to look for Georgian wines back in the USA. Who knew?
The Beautiful
Tbilisi was indeed beautiful, but the surrounding region was breathtaking. I did one day trip out of the city by myself to the UNESCO World Heritage monastery of Mtskheta and the city of Gori. This destination is less than an hour outside of Tbilisi. There were only two people on this tour and our guide/driver was really great.
Christianity
Mtskheta is one of the oldest cities in Georgia as well as one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. It is located at the confluence of the Kura and Aragvi rivers. Currently a small provincial capital. For nearly a millennium Mtskheta was a large fortified city. It also served as a significant economic and political center of the Kingdom of Iberia.
By the end of our week Arne was feeling up to doing an all-day private tour to Kazbegi & Gudauri. I am so glad he felt better. It would have been tragic to miss this region near the Georgian border with Russia. Truly astonishingly beautiful. It was a very long drive though, mostly due to difficult two lane roads. There is some major infrastructure work going on. Extensive improvements will help make this trip easier in the near future.
We were blessed with outstanding weather on our late September visit. Incredibly only a week later the area was blanketed with snow. The mountain region is a well known ski area popular with both Russians and Georgians. Additionally this beautiful backdrop shows off one of Georgia’s most stunning churches, Gergeti Trinity Church. We were able to do a couple short hikes to visit a waterfall and breath the delicious mountain air.
Final Thoughts
I can’t end this post without mentioning the historic thermal baths in Tbilisi. These are a must-do when visiting this area. The history of Tbilisi’s sulfur baths dates back to the city’s founding in the 5th century. This is when King Vakhtang Gorgasali discovered the natural hot springs while hunting. The city’s name, Tbilisi, is derived from the Georgian word “tbili,” meaning warm, a clear nod to these thermal waters. Visitors have several options for visiting the thermal baths, both public or private bathing. We did a private hour long bath visit on our final day and it was really fun and relaxing.
A Wonderful Surprise
Tbilisi was a wonderful surprise, and a place I would definitely come back to if given the chance. The food and wine were delicious and inexpensive. Tours and driver hire were also inexpensive. Gas is running about $3.00 USD per gallon. The average wage in Georgia is $925 per month with a wide disparity between city and rural areas. The fall scenery and weather we enjoyed was wonderful and the people we met were welcoming and interesting.
Georgia has issues they need to work on. I remain hopeful for this country to move forward in a positive way. We wish them all the best and thank everyone who made our visit so wonderful. I will be watching their progress in the months ahead.
Thank you for reading my post Tbilisi Georgia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Please see last week’s post Yerevan Armenia. You may also be interested in reading one of my favorite historical novels about Georgia – Hard By a Great Forest by Leo Vardiashvili. I highly recommend it.
Meanwhile come back next week for a new post in our series, next up – Azerbaijan. We love it when you comment, pin and share our blog posts. Thank you.
Recently while on a month long tour I listened to many audible books during long rides in jeeps, vans, busses and trains. Today’s book review All the Colors of the Dark by Chris Whitaker is one of those Audible books.
All the Colors of the Dark
This novel is long and was a perfect one for long car rides on Audible. It was also very engaging and full of well developed and interesting characters. In fact it was the characters more than the plot that I loved the most about this book. Each character is unique and flawed with themes of poverty, addiction, loneliness, obsession and lifelong friendship.
Patch & Saint
Two childhood friends are the focus of this novel that spans decades. Patch, with his one eye and Saint with her commitment to Patch, take very different paths in life as a result of both family upbringing and unexpected circumstances.
One Moment Changes Everything
Whitaker introduces us to 13-year old Patch who witnesses and averts a possible kidnapping of his 13-year old crush Misty. The events that surround this moment will alter the path of Patch’s life and everything that happens moving forward. The book is sprawling in its scope and will cover a turbulent life for Patch and all those he meets, including the girl he saved Misty and the girl he couldn’t save but may have imagined Grace.
Saint, a brilliant young girl and Patch’s only friend at 13 years, will also find her life obsession following the events that take place with Misty’s abduction attempt. Saint will find her life moving forward to an eventual role in law enforcement, due to her inability to leave the cold case be. Throughout her life her tumultuous relationship with Patch as he is both victim and suspect will be loyal yet rocky.
A Bit Slow
I really did like this book, pretty epic, but at times a bit slow and overmuch. At over 600 pages it may be daunting for some readers, but I found the Audible version satisfying.
Welcome to the first of a series of eight weekly posts covering the eight countries I visited this fall. My journey was epic and I chose not to write posts while traveling, in an effort to be engaged and present on this amazing odyssey. I hope you will enjoy reading my posts covering all that happened over the two months of travel – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful. Let’s begin with Yerevan Armenia.
Where Am I?
Yerevan, Armenia is not on everyone’s travel bucket list, but it was on mine after reading about it from another travel blogger several years ago. In fact we were scheduled for this trip when Covid shut the world down. So we were happy to finally get to the beautiful Caucasus region.
Armenia was the first of eight former Soviet states we would visit on this whirlwind trip. Over the past 8 plus years on the Grand Adventure, I have grown to really appreciate what it was like behind the Iron Curtain and why many people believe things were better for them during that time. Not all, but many people miss the security they enjoyed during the Soviet era.
A Little History
Armenia, one of the oldest countries in the world, boasts a rich and complex history that dates back to ancient times. The region was home to the Urartian Kingdom in the 9th century BCE, which laid the foundation for Armenian culture and identity. The Kingdom of Armenia was officially established in 301 CE when it became the first nation to adopt Christianity as its state religion, a pivotal moment that significantly influenced its cultural and social development. Throughout the centuries, Armenia faced numerous invasions and occupations, including those by the Persians, Romans, Byzantines, and later the Seljuks and Ottomans, which shaped its political landscape and often led to the displacement of its people.
Learning about the Armenian Genocide was eye-opening for me. In the early 20th century, Armenia experienced one of the most tragic events in its history: the Armenian Genocide. Perpetrated by the Ottoman Empire during World War I, an estimated 1.5 million Armenians were extinguished. Why have I never heard about this?
Following the war, Armenia briefly declared independence in 1918 but was soon incorporated into the Soviet Union in 1920, where it remained until the dissolution of the USSR in 1991.
How’s it Going?
Since gaining independence 1991, Armenia has sought to rebuild its national identity and address the historical injustices faced by its people. The country is navigating complex geopolitical challenges, particularly its relationship with neighboring Turkey and Azerbaijan. Armenia is part of the EU’s Eastern Partnership since 2009. Today, Armenia is recognized for its rich cultural heritage, including its ancient churches and monasteries, and its ongoing efforts to establish itself as a modern nation-state in the South Caucasus region. The world-wide Armenian diaspora (about 10 million) create awareness around the world about this little known and beautiful region of our planet.
As a visitor to Yerevan Armenia, we found most everything inexpensive from restaurants to tours and souvenirs. During our stay we ate delicious meals with drinks in Yerevan for less than $25 USD for two. Gas prices however, were about $5.30 gallon. The average monthly salary in Armenia is around $675 USD a month.
The Good
Armenia is still working its way through issues from the past Soviet era, but the people we met seem happy with the direction of their country with some exceptions regarding education. In Yerevan (one of the oldest cities in the world) we had a great Airbnb with an engaged and friendly host. We did three tours; a history walking tour, a food walking tour and a cooking class and market tour. These were all private tours we booked through Viator, and we had excellent guides and experiences. All of our guides spoke great English and were enthusiastic about the future of their country.
The Bad
Similar to our visit last spring to Albania and Serbia, the traffic was awful. It’s clear that the pace of automobile acquisition in Yerevan, Armenia after independence has outmatched that of infrastructure development. Drivers are aggressive, blaring horns constantly and the din can be annoying. Most drivers seem untrained with little regard for rules of the road. Case in point – we ordered a taxi on a rainy day. The taxi arrived and it was an old car, no seat belts and past it’s prime. In hindsight we should never have gotten in this vehicle. But we did. The driver was driving way too fast, in the wrong lane and swerved to miss a car. We crashed into a concrete barrier. Unfortunately, because we were not wearing seat belts, my husband hit is head hard on the ceiling and suffered a concussion.
Because of the concussion and my husband needing to rest, we ended up missing our all day tour outside of the city to Khor Virap and the Tatev Monastery. Even though I did not visit these places, I still recommend them if you have the chance. These are the top sights outside of Yerevan. It was disappointing but necessary for us to not travel on the day after our taxi accident.
Genocide
The Genocide is one of the worst things that has happened to the Armenian people, and it is something few people in the world know about. The Armenian genocide was the systematic destruction of the Armenian people and identity in the Ottoman Empire during World War I. Spearheaded by the ruling Committee of Union and Progress (CUP), it was implemented primarily through the mass murder of around one million Armenians during death marches to the Syrian Desert and the forced Islamization of others, primarily women and children. Today in Yerevan, this horrific period is remembered with an excellent Armenian Genocide Memorial & Museum that is a must visit for everyone visiting Armenia.
Today Armenia has no diplomatic relations with neighboring Azerbaijan. There are no open border crossings which presents a problem for visitors navigating the Caucasus region. This is due to the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict – an ethnic and territorial dispute between Armenia and Azerbaijan. This is an ongoing issue, very volatile, with no negotiations in sight.
The Beautiful
Yerevan, Armenia has many beautiful sites. We enjoyed our time inside the city. Our favorite places included the giant statue of Mother Armenia, the view of Mount Ararat (Armenians believe it to be where Noah’s Ark is), the Yerevan Cascade Climb, Matenadaran Manuscript Library, Republic Square and the amazing Genocide Memorial and Museum. We spent several hours exploring the National Gallery of Armenia and the GUM Market (has nothing to do with chewing gum) and we recommend both.
The beautiful and kind people stood out. They were interested in us and welcoming. Like many of the countries we visit, we did not meet any other Americans. Most of the visitors are from Europe.
A shout out to the local Emergency Room too. Our wonderful Airbnb host personally escorted us to the emergency room on a Sunday, stayed with us the entire time and translated for us. We would have been lost without him. Our ER visit with CatScan and prescriptions was $128.
Armenians are proud of their unique language and alphabet. The Armenian alphabet, created in 405 AD by the linguist and theologian Mesrop Mashtots, is a unique script that reflects the rich cultural and historical heritage of the Armenian people.
Food Glorious Food
Our food tour and cooking class both provided us an eye-opening education to the cuisine of Armenia. We had amazing Khorovats – like a shishkebab grilled meat; dolma, vine leaf wrapped meat; ghapama (my favorite), a spectacular stuffed pumpkin or squash; gata – a sweet bread; pickles of every persuasion; jengyalov hac – an incredible herb filled flat bread wrap; and the famous lavash flat bread served at every meal.
Here below is a link to our YouTube video about Armenian Food. Delicious.
Yerevan, Armenia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful
Yerevan, Armenia was a perfect place to spend a week. Plenty of time to see many historical sites, museums and parks and to eat the great food. We really enjoyed the people, the architecture and the culture. We enjoyed learning about the Armenian Apostolic Church (97% of Armenians are Christian) founded 301 AD. Christianity is the official state religion.
This tiny country packs a powerful punch. Yerevan is small and easy to maneuver. It is an up and coming destination you should have on your radar. I highly recommend it. Yerevan Armenia – The Good, The Bad & The Beautiful.
We love it when you pin and share and comment about our posts. Be sure and come back next Friday for our post about Tbilisi Georgia.
How does more than a million people die and nobody know about it? This is the story of the Armenian Genocide in 1915 & 1916. Here is my book review The Sandcastle Girls by Chris Bohjalian.
Armenia
Thanks to my friend Ruth, this book was recommended to me just days before I arrived for a week long visit in the city of Yerevan Armenia. Thank goodness for that too. I really had only a spark of knowledge about this horrific historical event – mostly only what I had pulled up while reading blogs about Yerevan. Reading The Sandcastle Girls was eye-opening. A painful and terrifying time in history that no one talks about.
Book Review The Sandcastle Girls by Chris Bohjalian
Bohjalian is a lovely writer and his handling of this sensitive subject was incredible, while still providing factual information in a fictional novel. The book begins with Christian missionary Elizabeth arrives with her father to Syria from Boston to deliver food and medical supplies to Armenian refugees. The missionary party is appalled at what they find in Aleppo and the efforts by the Turks to cleanse the area of Christina Amermenias. The missionary operation stumbles on roadblock after roadblock in its effort to get supplies to the refugees in need.
Elizabeth befriends Armenian Armen, a young man who has lost his wife and daughter to the genocide. He feels sure they are dead but he cannot stop looking for them as many women and children are arriving in Aleppo clearly tortured and abused. Armen joins the British Army in Egypt and he and Elizabeth begin a long correspondence and friendship.
Family Secrets
Present day we meet Laura Petrosian, a writer, researching her family history. Like many family histories there are many skeletons in the closet. As Laura realizes some truths about her grandparents, she is thrust into the past atrocities of Armenia and must find answers.
Beautiful Story of a Difficult Subject
Bohjalian’s talent is showcased in this astute and penetrating story of a difficult subject. I have no doubt most readers of this review are as ignorant of this historical event as I was. Never was this mentioned in any of my history or political science classes I took in high school and college. It’s a horrific event that has been swept under the carpet with political leaders turning a blind eye. Turkey refuses to call it a genocide, despite the fact that most nations, including the United States have acknowledged the brutal actions of the Ottoman Empire. Everyone should read this book and learn. Then you should visit the beautiful country of Armenia.
Be sure to read my travel blog post coming this Friday about my week in Armenia last September.
“Those who deny freedom to others deserve it not for themselves, and, under a just God, cannot long retain it.” -Abraham Lincoln.
Erik Larson is one of my favorite authors, his book Devil in the White City one of my favorite reads of all time. In his latest work, Larson tackles the complicated issue of the five months between the election of Abraham Lincoln and the start of the Civil War. Here is my book review The Demon of Unrest by Erik Larson.
A Country Divided
Many authors of late have used the current divide in our nation and in US politics to revisit the not so distant topic of a nation at odds, a country divided and the eventual war that would kill more than 750,000 people and nearly take down the union.
Only 160 years ago, the United States was on the brink of disaster, bitterly at odds as Lincoln came to office. He inherited the demon of unrest – a bitter south hell-bent on keeping slavery as a way to continue their antebellum way of life, and cotton as king.
Fort Sumter
Larson takes the reader through the five months from election to war, writing with intrigue and brilliantly researched. The book is a gripping account of misinformation, egos, errors and betrayals that eventually led to the Confederacy shelling Fort Sumter in Charleston and leading to all out war.
Book Review The Demon of Unrest by Erik Larson
This is a fascinating and well written and researched account of this important time in history, yet told in a chronological novel narrative. I learned many new facts about this period of history and was intrigued throughout the book. It is suspenseful and heartfelt and should make every reader realize how perilous a nation is, both in the past and present.
*****Five stars for The Demon of Unrest by Erik Larson – a must read for anyone who thinks it could not happen again. Thank you for reading my book review The Demon of Unrest by Erik Larson. See last week’s book review Loved and Missed by Susie Boyt.
We love it when you pin and share our book reviews. Thank you.
What lengths would you go to to save a little girl, a granddaughter, a life. Susie Boyt imagines it all in this novel. Here is my book review Loved and Missed by Susie Boyt.
Family
Despite all her efforts, single mother Ruth has a very difficult relationship with her drug addicted daughter Eleanor. Ruth has done everything she can providing love and support, food and money, advice and distance to help her only daughter. How much can a parent bare, when their adult child is lost and not wanting to be saved?
Then a Baby
When Eleanor gives birth and actually marries the father, Ruth is hopeful again. But soon it is clear to Ruth that the child is being neglected in the drug infested home. She takes the baby saying just for a few days…
Baby Lily will always know her mother, but Ruth will be the real mother as Lily thrives and the two find a new way of life. Lily grows and changes and blossoms into a teenager, though always questioning the lack of her mother’s love. Ruth will also put away her life’s disappointments and focus on bringing up Lily.
Tragedy
Boyt’s story is heartfelt and identifiable, especially for any women who has raised a child. This is not a happy book, filled with love, loss, heartbreak and in the end, retrospection. But it’s witty, honest, sweet and perceptive. ****Four stars for Loved and Missed by Susie Boyt.
Thank you for reading my book review Loved and Missed by Susie Boyt. See last week’s book review The Winemakers Wife by Kristin Harmel. We love it when you pin and share our book reviews. Thank you.
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